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There’s something rather appealing about an afternoon tea that involves oysters, crab and king prawns rather than cucumber sandwiches, scones and elaborate cakes.

At The Mayfair Chippy, the answer is the Afternoon Sea – a three-tier seafood tower that puts a spin on the afternoon tea tradition and is actually available at any time provided you give them 48 hours’ notice.

The original Mayfair Chippy is on North Audley Street, right in the heart of Mayfair, with the Knightsbridge branch on Brompton Road following a similar formula. Chequered floor, booth seating, and classic British fish and chips, alongside the more elaborate seafood offering and the likes of soft-shell crab burgers and mussels.

We visited the Knightsbridge branch and shared an Afternoon Sea for two between four of us, as well as some starters and sides. The tower arrives piled high with dressed crab and cockles, smoked salmon, Atlantic crab claws, king prawns, Carlingford oysters and cooked mussels. A bottle of English sparkly (Balfour Leslie’s Reserve) worked beautifully with the seafood.

The dressed crab was delicious, while the cockles had just the right refreshing hit of vinegar. Crab claws were fun to crack open, and the prawns plump. The smoked salmon was perhaps the one disappointment – it didn’t quite deliver with the creamy filling detracting from the flavour and texture.

Then came the starters. The Cornish salt and pepper squid was tender, encased in a crisp, light batter. But the real star was the prawn toast: four generous pieces stacked with prawns, and served and sriracha mayonnaise. I would return for these alone.

Going back to my Northern roots, I also had to have some chips and gravy, although I couldn’t persuade my health-conscious teenagers of the joys of free scraps (the bits of batter that fall off when frying the fish, in case you don’t know.)

While we were tucking into our tower, I couldn’t help noticing the fish and chips arriving at neighbouring tables. Part of me (the greedy part) regretted not ordering the haddock, or the sustainably sourced hake, which temporarily replaces cod. I watched them being carried past with increasing envy. Then I noticed people at the next tables looking rather enviously at our seafood tower.

It was a fun evening in a bustling setting, and this Knightsbridge branch is perfect after a busy day exploring Kensington’s museums. It’s casual done very well.

The Afternoon Sea costs £48 per person, for a minimum of two guests. Fish, chips and mushy peas £27.25.

The Mayfair Chippy

Knightsbridge: 138 Brompton Road, SW3 1HY
Mayfair: 14 North Audley Street, W1K 6WE