Review: Bistro Sablé
Review: Bistro Sablé
Tucked away from the madding foodie crowds of Upper Street, in the heart of Canonbury, is French neighbourhood restaurant Bistro Sablé. This charming spot takes its inspiration from the spirit of the Parisian bistro and the elegance of the French table. In summer, the doors open onto a secluded garden, where white linen tablecloths, greenery and festoon lighting create a delightful setting for an al fresco lunch or dinner.
An Aperol Spritz, accompanied by seasonal crudités with aioli and freshly baked bread, gave us time to soak up the atmosphere and peruse the tempting menu. There is something wonderfully unhurried about the garden, discretely screened from the road by planters filled with green shrubs as the evening unfolds.
My partner chose the Dorset snails with garlic and parsley butter to start, while I couldn’t resist the Mersea oysters with shallot mignonette. Both dishes showcased the restaurant’s commitment to carefully sourced produce, including dayboat fish and selected meats complemented by seasonal ingredients.
The wine list is devoted entirely to France and is clearly curated with discovery in mind. Rather than simply choosing by the bottle, diners can explore the regions through 75ml tasting pours, 125ml glasses and 375ml carafes. We chose a natural biodynamic rosé, which proved the perfect accompaniment to our meal — fresh and light, with subtle tannins.
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The main courses at Bistro Sablé packed a punch. The rotisserie chicken, served with Vin Jaune sauce, French-style hand-cut frites and butterleaf salad, was generous and cooked to perfection. I tucked into crispy sea bream on a bed of petit pois à la française with lardons, accompanied by one of France’s greatest culinary gifts: dauphinoise potatoes.
As dusk fell, our dessert was illuminated by the garden’s festoon lighting, creating the perfect setting for a lingering finish to our meal. The chocolate dessert served with cherry compote proved so tempting that we both succumbed to the rich dark mousse, beautifully paired with tart cherry flavours.
Our evening was professionally hosted by the maître d’, who made it her business to oversee the dining room and ensure every guest was well looked after. There was a relaxed confidence to the service that complemented the restaurant’s easy-going French character — attentive without ever feeling intrusive.
Bistro Sablé succeeds in doing what a great neighbourhood restaurant should: transporting you somewhere else without losing its sense of place. With its simple white tablecloths, French artwork sourced from Parisian flea markets, thoughtful hospitality and menu rooted in timeless bistro cooking, it offers a little taste of France in the heart of Canonbury. Part of the Noble Inns family, they serve beautifully presented dishes and an excellent wine list that you’d expect from this independent group of gastro pubs that includes Islington favourites, The Pig and Butcher and The Albion.
Bistro Sablé
020 7354 1144
63–69 Canonbury Rd, Islington, London, N1 2DG
