Review: Tower House, Richmond
Review: Tower House, Richmond
Image (c) Paddy Clugston
Perhaps boasting the loveliest stretch of the Thames in London, Richmond is understandably popular on a warm summer’s evening, and there’s no shortage of restaurants and bars along the riverfront, giving it serious holiday vibes.
Tower House has just joined them, occupying what was once the site of Pitcher & Piano. The team behind it is Nick House and Theo Hill of Notting Hill’s Gold, opening back in November, with the outdoor terrace getting its first test drive in July. And it’s beautiful inside and out.
Unsurprisingly, on our visit on a sunny evening, everyone was out on the terrace or in the garden room with its retractable glass roof open to the elements. We had a perfect corner table on the terrace with views down to the bustling riverside and the sun setting over the Thames.
We started with incredibly well-made cocktails (mine was a refreshing Moroccan Mint Smash made with Palmarae gin and cleverly enhanced with a little cumin seed.
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The menu is divided into Raw, Cheese & Charcuteries, Salads, Vegetables and Plates: it’s somewhat confusing, particularly given the veggies and salads come in at the same price as a beef carpaccio on the Raw at £16 so clearly they’re not side dishes.
But, as per the philosophy at Gold, the idea is to order a selection to share, with our waiter advising on five between the two of use. There are many delicious-sounding dishes, several cooked over flame. I wanted to order all of them.
Befitting the summer evening, we went for two off the Raw – sea bass ceviche with basil and mint verjus, and tuna carpaccio with rhubarb dressing. Then we ventured on to Vegetables, trying purple potatoes with pecorino pesto, and from Plates: wood-roasted sea bream with salsa verde, and a grilled veal t-bone.
Dishes arrive as they’re ready, which worked for us as we like to share. But non-sharers may face a pause if they’re holding out for their own particular dish. Everything we tried was fabulous – a zippy ceviche, fire-blistered purple potatoes with pops of pickled shallots adding piquancy, and the bream and veal had been cooked and seasoned perfectly.
We ordered dessert, not because we needed to, but we wanted to linger – orange cake was good, but the Basque cheesecake was standout.
Afterwards, we had a little nosey around the rest of the restaurant, housed in what was once a former mid-19th-century home. In case you’re wondering, its clock tower pays homage to Queen Victoria’s Osborne House.
The garden room restaurant is a delight with mature trees popping up through the floor, lush planting, and a view of the open fire kitchen. Other rooms a level up offer wicker chairs, flickering candles and palms snaking up to the ceiling. It’s all very atmospheric. You might, as we were, be tempted on to the one of the balconies for a cocktail, where you can gaze through the wrought ironwork at the views of the bridge and the river.
Tower Houses has become my new favourite in London for summer al fresco, and one I am eagerly anticipating for a winter visit – mine’s the candlelit spot upstairs by the window. Dreamy.
Address: 11 Bridge Street, Richmond, TW9 1 TQ