Review: Tortello
Review: Tortello
By Helen Down
When I heard March marks National Ravioli Day (20th) and National Tiramisu Day (21st) my first thought was: “Pah, marketing nonsense.” My second thought was: “Oooh, what a great excuse to try Tortello, the newly opened trattoria-inspired Italian in Bayswater.”
Sitting within the Royal Lancaster Hotel, but totally independent, Tortello opened in early 2026 and seems to have generated quite a reputation for itself. When we went at 6:30pm on a Thursday, the place was already filling up with a relaxed mix of hotel guests and curious Londoners. Perhaps they too had heard about Tortello’s handcrafted filled pastas? A source of great pride, all pasta ingredients are imported from Italy, with the exception of the eggs which hail from a top secret artisan farmer whose chickens are fed a special diet to ensure their yolks have a precise shade of gold.
As sustenance to help us choose between Tortello’s delectable selection of antipasti, pasta fresca and secondi, we tucked into taggiasche olives tangy enough to evoke martinis. After much deliberation, we both decided to honour National Ravioli Day by starting with black truffle and ricotta tortelli. A signature dish, each buttery truffly pasta parcel oozes with ultra fresh-tasting ricotta. My resolve to eat only half vanished after the first mouthful. I can safely say a glass of Gavi from the Italian-heavy wine list was the perfect accompaniment.
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Despite peaking early, I somehow accommodated my secondi too: delicate sea bass fillet with Scottish clams on perfectly seasoned potato and celeriac mash. The accompanying spinach was so vibrant, it curled around my dish like an emerald necklace. My friend, who opted for the slow-cooked beef cheeks with port wine, was equally as impressed, reporting his dish to be, “juicier than a Thomas Hardy milkmaid.”
Obviously, tiramisu ensued. But this was no ordinary tiramisu. Laced with hazelnuts and salted caramel, Tortello’s version is so elevated it belongs in the Italian clouds; apt considering the light texture of its mascarpone cream. My friend’s warm chocolate torte was up there too – deep cocoa flavour, vanilla gelato and toasted almond flakes, yet more heaven on a plate.
With vibrant lemons that recall the Amalfi coast used in place of table flowers and a 1960s Italian Job style Fiat used as decor, I loved Tortello’s understated style. I also loved its clear dedication to craft and high levels of service: our Canadian waitress, the incredibly well-informed and ever-smiling Francesca, was the embodiment of Tortelli’s high but unpretentious standards.
Lancaster Terrace, London, W2 2TY
Tel: 020 7101 7640
Web: tortello.com
Email: info@tortello.com
