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Review: The Farmer’s Mistress

Review: The Farmer’s Mistress

By Angela Zaher

Popular Battersea brunch spot, The Farmer’s Mistress (”FM”), is now doing Sunday roasts.  FM seems like a top hangout for the young creatives and professionals who live nearby judging by the buzz it had when we visited on a Sunday lunchtime.  Dogs are welcome too which adds to the vivacity of the place.  Around us, happy customers were feasting on their ranchy chicken waffles and cornbread smash with a few sightings of generously loaded plates of Sunday roasts.  Think Central Perk with much better catering and free flowing cocktails.  

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Both the beef rump cap (cut from the top of a cow’s hindquarter, also referred to as picanha) and the chicken roast were just what the doctor ordered for nursing a hangover and a revival of spirits on a cold, wet and grey Sunday.  Each plate was crammed with duck fat roast potatoes, swede and carrot mash, red cabbage and wilted greens plus a lovely yorkshire pudding- who could ask for more?  Anyone actually- you can opt to go bottomless roast for 90 minutes of unrestricted further helpings (32pp) and/ or for the brave/reckless, bottomless bubbles or cocktails for 60 minutes (20/27.50pp).

We decided to keep our bottoms on so that we can try their special cheesecake- a different flavour each weekend.  We lucked out with a banoffee one, a winning combo.  

The decor, with bare bricks and those trendy filament lightbulbs is modern and bright marred only by an overflow of plastic foliage and mysterious neon signs with “Naturally Naughty” emblazoned.  I think some minor tweaks following the “less is more” principle would give it a fresher outlook.  The service is one of the highlights of FM with a young, enthusiastic crew who are knowledgeable about what makes a good customer experience and care enough to deliver it.  

Angela Zaher is a freelance food writer based in London.  Her articles have been published in The Evening Standard, Delicious, Platinum, Good Housekeeping and Business Insider. She is a columnist and writes regular restaurant reviews for Time & Leisure and nogarlicnoonions,com.  She is on the Committee of the Guild of Food Writers. Find her on Instagram @angela_zaher.