Review: The Elder
Review: The Elder
We try the West Country cousin of Fulham’s Harwood Arms
From the back streets of Fulham to an elegant Georgian terrace in Bath, Mike Robinson has been a trailblazer for wild food and game. He is co-owner of Michelin-starred pub The Harwood Arms in SW6, and he has The Elder in the Hotel Indigo Bath.
The Elder restaurant and bar are independently run and owned by Mike, with a menu that is all about sustainability and seasonality. Tables snake out from the bar into a couple of cosy areas – they are casual yet elegant and the recently refurbished rooms features leather banquette seating, panelled walls and hunting prints. Think country house party with a modern twist. The kitchen has been extended and there are plans afoot to create another restaurant area too.
While we waited we were served perhaps the most picturesque bread plate ever – a muffin-like mound of a roll served on a wooden board with whipped butter. We could happily go back for that alone. There was also a warming glass of The Elder’s take on a bullshot: a beef consommé traditionally drunk while out hunting.
There’s much to tempt the meat-eater on the menu, as you’d expect. We started with a wild wood pigeon tart – it was delicious with light crisp pastry and rare slices of pigeon. It was served with a layer of foie gras and black pudding crumb, which did make it rather rich. A starter of Huntsham farm pork tenderloin schnitzel came as a mini version of the popular dish and was simple but delightful.
My son and I went for a mallard pie for two. It was very different to what I was expecting. This was no pub pie, more like a beef wellington. It was wonderful, with rare duck breast underneath a layer of sausage meat and a dome of beautiful pastry. Alongside it was a confit of the leg which was tender and moist with a crisp skin. We tried a ‘dirty mash’ side, not needed, but fabulously tasty. My husband went for the pave of Bathurst estate fallow venison: perfectly cooked and seasoned. There were a couple of welcome surprises that came with it – bone marrow and a little chou farci – a cute parcel of cabbage.
A bottle of the Pojega Valpolicella Ripasso complemented both main dishes perfectly.
The desserts were incredible – a Caramelia chocolate bar was reminiscent of a deconstructed Snickers bar with peanut butter and popcorn ice cream. Rhubarb custard tart with almonds and ginger was divine, and looked so pretty on the plate.
Service is knowledgeable and enthusiastic. It’s a wonderful spot and well worth booking on a weekend away in Bath. The setting is delightful too – you’ll find it on South Parade, which dates back to 1700, and was the famous architect John Wood the Elder’s first major project – hence the restaurant’s name, we assume.
Three courses: around £55
