Review: Nipotina
Review: Nipotina
By Helen Down
Nipotina is a new Italian in the heart of Mayfair that manages to be both homely yet well-heeled. With ‘Nipotina’’ meaning ‘granddaughter’ in Italian, the restaurant stays true to its familial roots by chef Somaia Hammad using inspiration from her Italian grandmother to craft classic dishes cooked with lashings of soul.
The menu is such an embarrassment of riches that we honestly didn’t know where to start. Fortunately, Livia – our half Italian, half English waitress – was on hand to guide us through the highlights. One of which was tortelli di aragosta alla vodka: triangular lobster pasta in a spicy red vodka sauce with black garlic. A riotous party of garlic, lemon and tender lobster, it was an absolute triumph. The aroma alone got us salivating. Without doubt, this was the highlight of our meal and put paid to the pizza envy we experienced when looking at neighbouring tables. Because who doesn’t yearn for a classic thin crust wood-fired pizza that’s priced like Pizza Express but made with far more finesse.
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That’s not to say the rest of the meal disappointed. Far from it. We first got into Italian mode by drinking gloriously bitter negronis served from ancient Roman-style pot. The zucchini fritti saw courgettes cut like chip shop chips for a satisfying bite. There followed a warm and delicate sea bass contrasted with a cold sharp scapece courgette topping. Thankfully, the portions left enough room for pudding, because it would be remiss – no, downright rude – to leave Nipotina without sampling Nonna Lina’s Cake, a ricotta cake named after chef Somaia’s long line of grandmothers. I had no idea ricotta cake could be such a flavour sensation. Likewise, the tiramisu which was elevated with gianduja, a Turin chocolatey hazelnut paste. And in keeping with the laid back vibe, most of the all-Italian wine list is available by the glass and carafe.
Opened a mere month ago in early November, Nipotina already feels like a buzzy favourite for relaxed Mayfairians. We went on a stormy Saturday lunchtime. It was utter misery out there. And yet as soon as we were greeted by Nipotina’s smiling maitre d’, all our woes were left behind on the rain-soaked pavement. Such is the power of a classic Italian meal that’s cooked with soul rather than a desperation for innovation. And this is why Nipotina feels like a warm hug from Nonna.
49 South Audley Street, London, W1K 2QD
