Review: Lina Stores, Shoreditch
Review: Lina Stores, Shoreditch
Classic Italian delights and a chic downstairs bar make for a very fine evening…
Image credit: Rebecca Hope
Lina Stores has come a long way since its humble origins as one of the first Italian delicatessens in London far back in 1944. The latest restaurant in Shoreditch opened its doors on 19 October, set within a grand Grade II listed building first built in 1868 that has been restored with Lina Stores’ signature flair. Downstairs, Bar Lina can be found: Lina Stores’ newest foray into the sleek world of basement bars.
My friend and I ventured down there before our dinner reservation, eager to try it out. The ambience is intimate yet glamorous, a softly-lit cocoon of stylish red curtains and a glossy bar. There’s a New York vibe to it all, from the menu of sophisticated Italian cocktails to the warm, friendly and accommodating service offered by the very professional bar staff. Upon perusing the drinks menu, we were warmly asked our preferences and promptly recommended something they thought we’d like. I was looking for something light and a little fruity, and the ‘Figlet’ I tried was a delicious concoction of fig liqueur, fig leaf, cherry & figs and malic. It was smooth and light, with a wonderful warm kick. I followed it up with an intriguing ‘Tiramisu’ cocktail, made with Vecchia Romagna, coffee liqueur, chocolate & vanilla and Adriatico Amoretto. It did indeed taste like tiramisu!
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Drinks done, we headed back upstairs to our table. The atmosphere on the dining floor is buzzy and convivial, with tables placed next to the open kitchen where you can watch fresh pasta being prepared. We began with antipasti of grilled prawns with datterini tomato, garlic and lemon – the prawns were absolutely succulent and the tomatoes little bursts of juicy flavour. The showstopper, however, was the ‘gnudi fritti’ – fried balls of ricotta and herb served with a Calabrian chilli marmaletta. They were delightful, the creamy richness of the ricotta perfectly offset by the sweet-and-spicy tang of the marmaletta.
Lina Stores are, of course, famed for their fresh handmade pasta. I went for the taglioni al tartufo, with egg yolk tagliolini and black truffle. Truffle can be a little like Marmite for some – love it or hate it – but for truffle enthusiasts I thoroughly recommend this dish. My friend equally enjoyed her lamb sausage ragu with pappardelle.
We were unfortunately too full for dessert, but there are some indulgent choices available: the Italian classics of gelato and tiramisu, as well as a tempting Sicilian cannolo with ricotta, pistachio and chocolate and a burnt caramel marsala tart with crème freche.
If you book in, do make sure to pay a visit downstairs to Bar Lina – it’s definitely worth the visit.
