Review: Archway, Battersea
Review: Archway, Battersea
Given the tucked-away location, it’s a testament to Archway’s popularity that it was buzzing on a Wednesday evening. You won’t stumble upon it by chance but the clue is in the name, hidden beneath the railway arches off the main drag near Battersea Park station. But word-of-mouth and a handful of glowing reviews have firmly secured its place on the local dining map.
From the moment you step inside, it’s easy to see why this Italian has such a following. The minimalist white-panelled interiors are warmed by candlelight, and the open kitchen brings an inviting energy. We were seated at the counter overlooking the chefs at work, a great spot to watch them preparing an array of pasta dishes, grilled meat, and fresh fish. A wood-fired oven and open grill take centre stage.
Starters were confident classics, relying on quality ingredients. A creamy, plump burrata was beautifully balanced by the sharpness of red and yellow tomatoes, with pangrattato adding a satisfying crunch. Fritto di pesce misto arrived as a generous pile of lightly fried seafood. At £17 and £19 respectively, they sit at the pricier end for starters, but the portions are easily shareable.
Pasta is offered in starter or main sizes. I chose the tagliatelle with the herb mentuccia, usually paired with swordfish here, but on this occasion served with turbot. The combination worked well, with a delicate cream sauce brightened by fresh tomatoes. A filled pasta of mascarpone, fresh peas, and mint was light, fresh, and summery. Other mains included onglet and sea trout with borlotti beans.
We couldn’t resist ordering sides: zucchini fritti arrived in whisper-thin slivers and were addictive, while roast potatoes were crispy and golden.
Dessert brought the meal to a close on a high. A poached peach with white chocolate sponge was lovely, but the true standout was the bomboloni: mini doughnuts served with custard and raspberries. Utterly heavenly.
With trains rumbling gently overhead, the hum of happy diners, and warm, friendly service, Archway is totally charming. It’s the perfect neighbourhood restaurant – if only it were in my neighbourhood.
