Interview: Kerth Gumbs
Interview: Kerth Gumbs
We talk to the top chef about his cooking at Fenchurch
With over two decades of experience in world-class kitchens, including Michelin-starred establishments, Chef Kerth Gumbs brings his Caribbean heritage to Fenchurch Restaurant at Sky Garden, a contemporary fine dining gem on the 37th floor of London’s Fenchurch Building.
We spoke with Kerth about what he loves about the Fenchurch menu, his Anguillan roots, and where he likes to dine in London…
What excites you most about being a chef?
One of my core beliefs is that human beings create life, and food is the source that maintains it. One can’t be without the other. It’s really exciting being able to create amazing food and memories and play a part in people’s lives in this way.
What surprised you most on your journey from when you started out as a chef to where you are now?
I think one of the most surprising things has been how I have changed myself over the years. When I started out, I was full of adrenaline and maybe had a low tolerance, which suited my surroundings at the time, but now I’ve grown into a more positive high-spirited chef. I pay much more attention to building bonds with my chefs, helping them to achieve their culinary goals.
Of course, the industry has changed a lot over the years as well – especially in the years since the pandemic. I think the industry is overall more accessible which is a good thing.
How did your upbringing shape your career?
I grew up in Anguilla, a tiny Caribbean Island whose economy relies almost exclusively on tourism. When I had to decide whether I wanted to do auto mechanics, woodwork or food in school, I went for food and nutrition. I was working in a five-star hotel on the island when I got a scholarship to pursue my passion in track and field and even competed professionally in 2002. When the scholarship fell through, I had to look at alternatives and spoke to my father about pursuing a career in cooking. This was always an interest of mine, and my mum aspired to be a chef; she was a very well-known cook on my island and her influence has always had a big impact on my cooking.
Having worked in several top kitchens, what do you consider to be the best piece of advice you have received or lesson you learned?
I’ve worked in some amazing kitchens in my time, but two experiences really stand out to me for how they helped me develop as a chef. I worked at The Wolseley under Chris Corbin and Jeremy King where I had to learn about managing myself, my temperament and adapting to a sheer and intense volume of work. And then later, my time at Restaurant Tom Aikens was taxing at times, but a fantastic opportunity to learn more about pure culinary creativity and precise execution.
If I was to give some advice now, I would say don’t be afraid to look over shoulders to learn as much as you can whenever you can. I encourage chefs to keep their eyes open and be aware of what other chefs are doing and learn routines and see processes. It’s the best way to learn and improve.
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What are your favourite dishes on the menu at Fenchurch?
Currently, it’s 50/50 between curried lamb with black garlic and pickle cucumber or the Parmesan crusted veal chop with sweet potato and buttered peas. I’ll have to admit I do also love the soufflés on the menu as the flavour combo changes monthly and they are a special treat.
Which dishes are most evocative of your Anguillan roots?
The dessert on my signature tasting menu is a Coconut Tart, which is inspired by Andre Hall from Hall Bakery in Anguilla, which was a childhood favourite of mine. It has spiced coconut, raspberry, vanilla and chocolate caramel and is perfect for rounding off the meal – it always makes me feel at home when I taste it and I’m really happy to be able to pay homage to Andre in this way at Fenchurch. His recipe has been in the family for 30 years and I was lucky enough to have a masterclass from him before adding to the menu!
What was your favourite food growing up?
The ultimate comfort food for me is curried goat, rice & peas or stewed oxtail, coleslaw, rice & peas. Both with a side of Johnny cakes of course! Nothing makes me feel more nostalgic and these dishes remind me so much of growing up in Anguilla.
What restaurants and chefs do you admire in the capital?
Ayo Adeyemi of Akoko restaurant is doing great stuff! I see what he’s doing for West African cuisine and where he’s taking it which is really interesting.
What is your favourite time of day to enjoy the view from the restaurant?
This might have to be in the early morning when I arrive and there’s a sense of calmness in the skyline view. Otherwise it’s mostly head down in the kitchen.
What do you miss about Anguilla? Do friends and family come to visit?
I love London as a city. The buzz and diversity makes it a really special and exciting place but I don’t like the weather. I very much miss and prefer the Caribbean sunshine, sunsets and cool sea breeze.
Where would you send a visitor in London?
For breakfast, probably HIDE. For street food, I’d recommend strolling the markets in Brick Lane or Camden. For dinner, I like trying out new concepts so it always depends on what catches my interest at that time.
Where do you live and what do you like about it?
I live in Neasden however we’re just in the process of moving again. I lived in Soho for eight years but moved slightly further to have a bit more space for the kids.
How did your experience on Great British Menu shape your career?
It was a thrilling culinary rollercoaster. Just an amazing experience yet daunting at the same time to put yourself up against some seriously talented chefs while being filmed and having to find the balance between nerves and focus. I still feel very fortunate to have made it that far in the competition.
