Review: Colombo Kitchen, Putney
Review: Colombo Kitchen, Putney
Deliciously indulgent Sri Lankan fare
Before sitting down for my lunchtime booking at Putney’s Colombo Kitchen, I was relatively uninitiated into the wonders of Sri Lankan cuisine. Despite – or, perhaps precisely because of – my lack of experience, I was very eager to try the rich, authentic flavours of this multi-award-winning restaurant.
Helmed by Head Chef Sylvia Perera, Colombo Kitchen’s menu showcases a vibrant tapestry of recipes that have been cherished in her family line for generations. The dishes are complemented by their selection of signature cocktails, each hand-crafted with care and delicate flavouring.
The dining area is cosy and airy, the décor simultaneously relaxed and elegant. There is an atmosphere of effortless refinement paired with welcoming friendliness; the staff are professional yet warm and chatty.
It was 1pm when we arrived for lunch – but since it was the weekend, it was certainly not too early to begin with cocktails. I opted for a light and citrusy Ambula cocktail, made with vodka, Limoncello, caramel, pineapple juice, passion fruit and lime. Wondrously light and perfectly balancing sweetness and tartness. My friend chose the Colombo Toddy, an exotic and refreshing mixture of arrack, spiced rum, pineapple juice, lime and ginger beer.
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It was recommended that we try the hopper, a traditional Sri Lankan crispy bowl-shaped pancake made from fragmented rice flour and coconut milk. We were invited into the open kitchen to watch it being prepared: the chef poured the mixture around the base of a deep pan before placing it straight on the grill beneath a lid. The hopper was then served to us with three different sambas for dipping. We thoroughly enjoyed the unique flavouring, the nuttiness of the coconut milk complimenting the crispy-yet-fluffy texture of the pancake.
Next we shared a selection of different dishes: beer-battered prawns tossed in a spicy butter sauce, devilled paneer tossed with onions and chilli, and pickled aubergine moju with peppers and onions. To mop it all up we opted for handmade paratha roti, a crispy-floury layered delight.
The prawns were absolutely divine, a fried delight paired with an addictive butter sauce we couldn’t get enough of. The aubergine moju – one of Sylvia’s signature dishes – carried a wonderful sweetness and we enjoyed making little sandwiches out of it with the roti. The paneer was spiced to perfection and balanced perfectly by its vegetable mix.
It was certainly a lunchtime feast; we both agreed we needed a walk through Putney after inhaling so much deliciousness. Luckily Colombo Kitchen is just a short walk from the river, the perfect accompaniment to a divine weekend meal. It’s safe to say I have been thoroughly converted to the wonders of Sri Lankan cuisine.
