Review: The Cary Arms, Devon
Review: The Cary Arms, Devon
We found a perfect spot by the sea for a weekend away with the family
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With the summer holidays fading into memory, the idea of a quiet weekend by the sea had strong appeal, especially if it didn’t involve endless hours in the car. We’ve always loved Devon, but weren’t sure if it could work as a quick escape from London. We decided to find out – not least because we could coincide our visit with England’s Seafood FEAST festival.
We travelled from Paddington after school on the Friday, taking the Great Western Railway to Newton Abbot. There was something rather romantic in leaving London behind to head west as the sun was setting. In just two-and-a-half hours we were in Devon.
A 20-minute taxi ride from the station brings you to the Cary Arms, which dates back to the 17th century and is known as the “inn on the beach”. It has garnered quite a following for its locally-sourced seasonal food and rooms with views over Babbacombe Bay. Nautical artefacts and vintage maritime touches lend the interiors a sense of coastal nostalgia. Torquay’s lights glisten in the distance, and the waves gently lap nearby. The welcome is warm. Your shoulders unknot on arrival.
We checked in, dropped our bags and were shortly tucking into our first seafood feast in honour of the festival, a board packed with treats such as scallops, mackerel, and dressed crab. The kids enjoyed beautifully cooked rump steaks, as well as some fabulous truffled fries. The dining area is divided into the conservatory and bare-bricked traditional bar. We went for the latter where there was a nice bustle with a mix of couples and families, along with their dogs.
The hotel hosts ‘Catch and Cook’ experiences, with guided fishing in the morning and your haul cooked up by the chef for lunch. To take advantage of the high tide, we were advised to be down at the nearby pier for a 9am start – the ideal time to fish for mackerel.
There are a mix of rooms at the hotel, from traditional suites in the inn to standalone beach huts with New England styling, all with glorious views of the sea. There are also self-catered cottages, for groups and larger families. Our room was the Captain’s Suite in the inn, perfect for a family of four, with both a large double and a twin room. The double bedroom and terrace look out over the water, and while you can hear the gentle hum of the restaurant below, it’s never intrusive, just enough to remind you you’re somewhere sociable and relaxed.
The next morning, it was hard to resist lingering for breakfast in the lovely conservatory offering views over the bay. With its ochre-coloured cliffs and turquoise waters, you can see why this stretch of coastline has long drawn literary greats and royals alike, from Queen Victoria to Oscar Wilde – there is a Blue Plaque up on the cliffside home he stayed at in the winter of 1892.
It was time to try our luck at fishing, something our family had never done before. We picked up our rods and followed our host, Nick, down to the pier. After some brief instruction, our youngest was reeling in some fish. It took me a while to work out how to cast properly but it was rather fun. Sadly, I had no luck, and the spa was beckoning (you need to book a time slot in advance). But my son was hooked and he was very happy to stay out for a couple of hours – during which time, he reeled in a proud haul of 10 gleaming mackerel.
The hydrotherapy pool offers incredible views over the bay so you can sit back in the bubbles and admire the vista. I like my spa baths on the toasty side so this was a little too cool for me but was delightful after time in the sauna and a swish in the mist of the experience shower.
It was soon time for lunch, with fresh mackerel served alongside seasonal vegetables and roast new potatoes. Delicious, particularly with a local ale to go with it.
The South West Coast Path runs by the door so we picked up a map and went for a wander to Kents Cavern, a route that takes you past Anstey’s Cove: it is an atmospheric spot and you can see why it fired the imagination of Agatha Christie. You could conjure up your own murder mystery plot at the beachside cafe with a hot chocolate in hand.
Allow time to go on a tour at Kents Cavern. This labyrinth of caves has impressive stalactites and mites, stories of cave hyenas and bears, and evidence of our early ancestors using this site for shelter. The guide gave us a demonstration of just how dark the caves actually are: after lighting a makeshift lamp from scallop shells and moss, like our ancestors would have done, he asked if anyone was afraid of the dark. We then spent a couple of minutes in blackness, which is quite a disorienting though intriguing experience.
That evening we planned to venture out. For two weeks in October, many restaurants in the area host events and special menus for FEAST. We opted for Offshore, a restaurant-bar in Torquay, just ten minutes away by taxi. It’s a friendly and popular place and was offering an Agatha Christie inspired meal with lobster followed by blackberry ice cream, apparently her favourites. We had some incredibly plump and fresh mussels and crispy calamari to start and the lobster was sweet and fleshy.
Back at the hotel, we lingered in the residents’ lounge over a glass of wine, playing chess and raiding the bookshelves. Guests chatted with one another, dogs stretched out under chairs. The atmosphere is one of a convivial and relaxed house party.
On Sunday morning, my son and husband were back at the pier, keen to squeeze in one last session with the rods (one fish caught this time), while I walked along Babbacombe’s red shingle beach. The vintage cliff railway still rattles gently up and down the hill, and the beach huts, painted in pastels, give the scene a nostalgic air.
Before heading home, we took a RIB tour with Torquay Watersports, skimming along the coast past arches and rock stacks. We spotted porpoise, seals and a bottlenose dolphin.
In just two days, we’d managed sea air, seafood, fishing, coastal walks, caves, and a spa, without ever feeling rushed. The train journey back takes you along the Riviera Line, a stunning route overlooking bays and estuaries. We arrived back in time for homework and dinner, and to our busy pace of life. But that weekend in Devon was something special. The fishing experience was bonding, as was enjoying chilling in the hotel, whether it was over a game of pool or sitting out on our terrace looking at the stars together.
With two teens, it can be hard to find something that works for all, but this was the perfect family weekend. Even better if you can stay for longer over a school holiday – we will be back.
The details
- Catch & Cook at Cary Arms runs on selected dates (next is 11 October). From £14.50pp with your own catch; £23pp if not.
- Rooms: From £195 (Luxury Sea View), £245 (Beach Hut), and from £215 for the Captain’s Suite (sleeps four). All include breakfast.
- Website: www.caryarms.co.uk | 01803 327 110
- Travel: Direct trains from London Paddington to Newton Abbot via GWR (around 2.5 to 3 hours), followed by a 20-minute taxi. For more information or to book tickets online, visit GWR.com
- Coastal boat tours: From £37pp with Torquay Watersports
- Offshore offshoretorquay.co.uk
- Kents Cavern: Book via reception for discounted rates. Standard prices are £18.95 (adults), £16.25 (children).
