Review: Der Böglerhof, Alpbach, Tyrol, Austria

>SUBSCRIBE FOR THE BEST THINGS TO DO EVERY WEEKEND<

Perhaps because I come out in hives at the very idea of The Sound of Music, I’ve never gone on an alpine holiday. But arriving in Alpbach on a sunny autumn afternoon, I soon realised my error. Soaring pine-clad mountains hugged a cluster of wooden chalets, their balconies spilling over with bright blooms. A pastel-coloured church spire peeked out among them, and a tan-and-cream patterned cow made her way across the meadow, bell tinkling to announce her arrival. It was as bucolic a scene as you could imagine.

Across the street were two men in lederhosen carrying musical instruments. Someone could be about to break into Edelweiss at any moment. I felt itchy. We ducked quickly into our hotel – the five-star Böglerhof – an alpine-style chalet in keeping with the rest of the village but with even more flowers on its balconies, if that were possible. It’s no surprise that Alpbach is known as Austria’s most beautiful flower village and won the title of Austria’s most beautiful village.

We later learned that the hotel stretches across several of these traditional buildings, all added on to the original structure, with parts dating back 500 years. We also discovered that the uniformity across the village can be traced back to the town’s mayor, Alfons Moser, grandfather to the hotel’s current owner Joannes, who set strict building regulations in the 1950s. There’s a conference centre here, too, but you wouldn’t know it, as it’s a Bond-like lair tucked into the hillside.

Der Böglerhof has been run by the Moser-Duftners since 1933 and is still very much a family business – it’s a welcoming one at that, something noticeable as soon as you check in. All the staff we met seemed to really care about their guests. On one wall are photos of everyone who works there, a nice touch. We’d arrived by plane and train, and a drink on the terrace in the late sun was most welcome. Younger guests were making the most of the last rays in the family pool, and our teens went off to play a game on the giant chess set. It was one of those moments when you could feel your stress melt away.

We looked over the hiking maps we’d picked up from reception and made plans for the next couple of days – a walk in the mountains, a bike ride and then nothing more than lounging in the spa. We checked into our family suite – a generous space with a bunk room for up to three children, a double bedroom, bathroom and lounge. There’s also a balcony with views of the church and surrounding mountains – a scene we never got tired of looking at, watching how the light changed throughout the day.

Most guests here book the three-quarter board package, which includes breakfast, a light buffet lunch and a multi-course dinner. The restaurant is made up of a series of lounges, each a cosy traditional space with some lovely design touches, such as the stitched leather lampshades. You sit at the same table for your stay, and at breakfast, you make your dinner choices and look through the leaflet of the next day’s activities. Both the menu and activities change daily over the course of a week. It gives a nice rhythm to your stay. The staff get to know you, and it all adds to the amiability of the place.

Our first dinner was saddle of suckling pig. Another night we had braised haunch of veal. And another evening we paid a supplement to have the Alpbach beef served on the bone with truffle fries – it was hard to resist, as you can see the beef on display in the cooler cabinet. There’s a starter course, then a soup (a chicken consommé was our favourite), a main, then dessert. You can also top up your meal with extras from a buffet of salads, cold meats and an incredible array of cheeses. A chocolate fountain with strawberries was a particular hit. There’s also an award-winning gourmet restaurant, Fuggerstube, open on certain nights for an extra fee.

Breakfasts are equally generous, with a buffet stacked with everything you could possibly want – all with great attention to detail, including several different honeys, an array of fresh bread and pretzels, hams, cheeses, smoked salmon and eggs cooked to order. It’s all designed to set you up for a day of hiking or skiing. If you’re just going to be lounging in the spa, you’re in trouble.

With that in mind, we donned our hiking boots and picked up an Alpbachtal Card from reception, which gives you free transport around the area. We caught the bus and then went up the mountains in the cable car, with a plan to climb a summit or two. Local families hopped up and down the trails like sure-footed goats. I scrambled up rather more cautiously, although the path we took is easily doable with decent boots and reasonable fitness. The views are sensational, with the mountains stretching out all around you and the villages below.

After our walk, we felt we deserved the spa – pausing first for some tea and cakes from the buffet. And what a spa it is. Actually, make that two spas. There’s the new one on the top floor, for those over 15, and a family, swimming-suit-on spa for children – and here’s where the hotel wins out if you or your teens are not keen on the whole kit-off experience that European spa etiquette requires. And families are not short-changed – they have a whole range of saunas, including a cute Finnish cabin reached via a wooded path. Children also have their own indoor/outdoor pool.

We headed up to the rooftop spa, read our books in the sun, then braved the cold-water swimming lake. Surrounded by ornamental grasses that catch the light and the breeze, it was an absolute delight – particularly as you can warm up again in the adjacent spa pool. The saunas looked tempting – we stripped off and, in true British style, kept our towels around us until the last minute. The sauna master was preparing one of the rooms for an Aufguss session and invited us in – sitting naked with 12 strangers while the sauna master dramatically waved black fans at us, wafting extreme heat in our direction, was certainly a different experience. The spa also offers the usual array of treatments and a vast relaxation room with floor-to-ceiling windows so you can gaze out at the incredible mountain view. To say we slept well that night would be an understatement – and if the fresh air, exercise, sauna and multi-course menu won’t do it, the cloud-like duvet and sheer peace will.

The hotel’s activity programme includes the likes of guided hikes with tai chi, hikes with llamas and an e-bike tour. I was keen to do the latter but it wasn’t available on the days we were there, so we picked up the free regular bikes from the hotel and once again made our way up the mountain. For a little extra, you can take them up in the cable car, with the idea that you can cycle back down again along the gravel paths. In hindsight, it doesn’t sound the most sensible of ideas. But my teens were keen – so keen they sped off and fell off, and one is an experienced dirt biker back home. I squeezed my brakes all the way down, making a slow descent at about 2 mph. Once back on the flat, I appreciated the idyllic views and cycling along the side of the stream through the forest.

The route took us back to Alpbach. We picked up a restorative wheat beer to have on the terrace and then headed into the spa. The teens went to play pool and table tennis. We exhaled deeply, feeling as contented as a guest’s dog who was happily snoozing next to its owner. The hotel is dog-friendly, child-friendly. In fact, I can’t imagine a friendlier place.

We were eager to find out more about the hotel and the area, and the owner, Johannes, is an enthusiastic host. He invited us to explore the wine cellar, one of the oldest parts of the building. He leads weekly free tastings and special events in the atmospheric candlelit space. We tried a crisp, light Grüner Veltliner and an excellent Riesling – a Jamek 2025 Ried Klaus.

The ski season starts here around mid-December and runs through to Easter, with snow cannons keeping the slopes topped up. Johannes was keen to point out that this is very much a family resort – don’t come expecting the “Vegas-like” party scene elsewhere. I don’t ski, but I would love to come back here in the snow. Visiting in autumn, with the leaves turning red and gold, is a delight. I imagine in winter it would be just as magical. And summer, too, offering a welcome escape from the heat. Just don’t mention The Sound of Music.

• From €233 per person per night, based on two sharing a double room on a ¾ gourmet board basis.
• Getting there: Innsbruck is the nearest airport, which is 45 minutes by car. It was out of season when we travelled, and we went via Munich airport as there were more options from Heathrow. We then took trains to Brixlegg (the final stretch is beautiful) where you can take a taxi or bus 8km to the hotel.

www.boeglerhof.at