Review: Vatavaran

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Building on the tremendous success of Kutir and Manthan, esteemed Michelin-starred chef Rohit Ghai, together with business partner Abhi Sangwan, have launched a new luxury Indian dining destination on the highly coveted Beauchamp Place.

Tucked away in the heart of Knightsbridge we arrived at Vatavaran with little expectation on a quiet January evening.

As soon as we went up the steps we entered a parallel sanctuary and were immediately taken away from the bustle of the street outside into an immersive dining experience on many levels.

We were warmly greeted by the staff and given a tour of the restaurant. Vatavaran means “atmosphere” in Sanskrit and the restaurant replicates the Himalayas with each floor representing a different aspect of the mountains.

Abhi Sangwan is the designer and has worked hard to achieve the balance of experiencing the natural world while you eat. The ground level symbolises the valley streams, the mezzanine depicts the mountain ridges, and this gives an opportunity to watch the chefs at work.

Next level up is the rich forestry of the mountains represented in dark and deep greens and then on the top floor we have the summit which is an opulent and decadent arena with velvet textures and deep reds in this lounge and cocktail bar.

Each level and floor has its own identity which works on many levels- literally….however if there were to be any downside, it is that the restaurant can feel a tiny bit disparate.

We settled in to the mezzanine, which gives an open view to the masterchefs which was entertainment in itself, and then the cocktail menu came.

Rohit Ghai has taken things to a new level with his mixologists and we ordered a Sikkim, which consisted of vodka, coconut, lime, rose and soda and a Sehar, which has tequila, tamarind, passionfruit and ginger.

Both were sublime and balanced and really brought to the fore the Indian flavours with exotic spices and combinations giving a modern twist on traditional cocktail formulas.

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This modern take on traditional Indian flavours doesn’t end with the drinks menu. Rohit Ghai’s culinary CV is both impressive and inspirational. From projects such as Rivayat in Marrakech, Aangan in Muscar and his leadership at London’s Gymkhana means that he is head of the game in modern Indian cuisine.

Starters included crispy potato, tamarind and pomegranate, robata-and grilled wild tiger prawns with chickpea and coconut, which were delectable.

For our mains we had lamb barbat with intentionally burnt spices; tadkha dal and steamed rice and whole rotisserie masala chicken with bone marrow sauce.

Both were perfectly balanced and unique in their presentation and pairing with seasonal ingredients.

To finish, we both had almond and garlic mawa cannoli with mixed berried and pistachios, which was delectable. Not too sweet or over-bearing, and sustaining a unique and experimental twist on the Indian dishes.

We left feeling full and complete after a rich sensory experience.

The taste, smell and beautiful surroundings were all consuming, and it was just such a shame it was a Wednesday evening as there is live music at the weekends. We will definitely be going back!