Review: Browns Brasserie & Bar

Tucked away on St Martin’s Lane, in a beautiful period building, Browns feels surprisingly peaceful considering it is only moments from the crowds of Covent Garden. Step inside and the pace changes. High ceilings, comfortable seating and plenty of space between tables make it somewhere you instantly feel relaxed. On the warm evening I visited, the air conditioning alone was enough to make me want to linger over a long dinner.

What I liked most about Browns is that it knows exactly what it is. It isn’t trying to reinvent classic British dishes or impress with complicated presentations. Instead, it focuses on good-quality ingredients, generous portions and familiar favourites that are cooked well.

We started with raspberry Bellinis (£15), a great choice on a very hot evening. They were light, fruity and refreshing. We then shared a decent bottle of Vinho Verde priced at a very reasonable £37. In this part of London, where drinks prices can quickly mount up, it felt like excellent value.

The restaurant’s Taste of Summer Evening Set Menu is another pleasant surprise, with two courses for £29 or three for £35. If you’re tempted by the ribeye steak, there’s a £10 supplement.

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To start, we ordered the burrata and the traditional prawn cocktail. Both were generously portioned, fresh and flavoursome and refreshingly free of unnecessary fuss.

For our mains, we both chose the ribeye steak. Cooked rare as requested, it arrived juicy and full of flavour. The crisp chips and rich tarragon sauce were the perfect accompaniment. I had also ordered a side of cabbage which never arrived, but it was a small oversight in what was otherwise a thoroughly enjoyable meal.

Dessert caters for traditionalists too. The Eton Mess was light, fresh and packed with crunchy strawberry meringue, while the chocolate tart paired beautifully with blackcurrant sorbet, whose sharpness balanced the richness of the chocolate.

Looking around the dining room, it was clear Browns has built a loyal following. Couples were enjoying leisurely dinners, groups catching up before heading to the theatre and plenty of people who looked as though this wasn’t their first visit. It has the reassuring feel of a restaurant people return to because they know exactly what they’re going to get.

That’s probably Browns’ biggest strength. In an area where new restaurants appear almost as quickly as others disappear, it’s refreshing to find somewhere that isn’t chasing the latest trend. Established in 1973, Browns has spent more than 50 years perfecting a formula that still works: classic British food, good cocktails and a comfortable setting where you can actually hear the person sitting opposite you.

Service was warm and attentive throughout the evening. None of the staff knew we were reviewing the restaurant, so the experience reflected exactly what any customer could expect on a normal visit.

Covent Garden has no shortage of places to eat, but not every meal needs to be an event. Sometimes all you want is a really good steak, a decent glass of wine, a proper dessert and somewhere comfortable to enjoy them. Browns delivers exactly that. Whether you’re stopping by before the theatre or simply looking for a dependable meal in the heart of the West End, it’s easy to see why so many diners keep coming back.

Taste of Summer Set Menu runs from 6pm Monday to Friday