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Review: Cicchetti

Review: Cicchetti

By Helen Down

The Piccadilly outpost of Cicchetti – a collection of high-end restaurants where authentic Italian cuisine gets the sharing plates treatment – has found a new home. Now nestling between Fortnum & Mason and The Wolseley, it’s keeping excellent company.

As is befitting for such a prestigious location, the new restaurant is a theatre of opulence that combines a salmon colour palette with mirrors, chandeliers, art deco flourishes and soft lighting (so soft I had to use my iPhone torch to read the menu). In case that’s not enough to wow you, there’s even a dramatic tree slap bang in the middle of the dining room.

Attracting a wide range of diners – from the pre and post-theatre crowd, to business meetings, romantic dates, social catch-ups and family gatherings – the restaurant, having opened only a month ago, is buzzing with the thrill of the new, while staying faithful to good ol’ Italian classics.

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We started with tortino di granchio (a generous portion of crab meat wrapped in smoked salmon with a dill and fennel garnish) and gamberoni fritti (aka: battered prawns with spicy mayo), with the latter being served in a copper martini glass for a humorous touch of nostalgia.

There followed an excellent ravioli tartufo and pecorino – three al dente pasta parcels served in a luxurious truffle cream sauce. It was so delicious that I wanted more, but my digestive system thanked me for resisting. I have to admit that it outshone our risotto gamberi asparagi which made-up for its lack of asparagus with a big beast of a prawn that almost outsized the plate. Thankfully, the zucchini fritti were to die for – shoestring strips of courgette in a delicate tempura batter, they took me right back to The Ivy.

We were saved from the pudding choice paradox by a genius invention called dolci cicchetti: a selection of mini cakes spanning pale green pistachio torte, perfectly homemade tiramisu, chocolate and hazelnut cake, and a deliciously dense cheesecake with a hint of citrus. All served with a heap of one of best vanilla ice creams I’ve ever tasted and two shots of limoncello. An absolute show-stopper… and an absolute steal at a mere £16.75. It’s worth going to Cicchetti Piccadilly for this dish alone.

Website: sancarlo.co.uk

Instagram:  @sancarlo_cicchetti