Review: Orion, Wimbledon Village

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Given that January is traditionally a lean month for restaurants, it was striking to find Orion packed to the rafters on a bitterly cold winter’s evening. Whether it was curiosity that had drawn half of Wimbledon Village through the door, or the pull of repeat visits since the restaurant quietly opened in December, either explanation feels entirely plausible.

This confident new opening on the former site of The Light House is the work of Alex Webb, winner of MasterChef: The Professionals, who has worked at restaurants such as Hélène Darroze at The Connaught and The Frog Hoxton. Orion is a French-inspired, British seafood-led restaurant – the name references the Orion constellation, symbolising the three men who have inspired Alex’s love of cooking – his late father and two grandfathers.

Check out our interview with Alex here

There’s an open kitchen that allows you to watch Alex commanding the pass, and a fish counter hints at the quality of the seafood sourcing. Tables are close together but that seems to add to a convivial atmosphere.

We were welcomed by charming, knowledgeable front-of-house staff who struck exactly the right balance between attentiveness and ease. There was certainly no sign of Dry January or Veganuary on our visit. The room was buzzing: cocktails being shaken, seafood plates landing on tables, steaks being carved, and more than one eye-catching caramel tart drifting past.

We joined in with the spirit – and began with cocktails – a Negroni and a Pisco Sour, both difficult to get right, and both absolutely first class. It set the tone for what followed.

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To start, Alex’s signature lobster and prawn toast arrived crisp and generous, layered with black sesame and with a lime, chilli and a carrot purée that lifted the dish beautifully. It was fresh, indulgent and perfectly judged. We also tried slow-cooked pig cheek with truffle and potato purée, super-tender and elevated by the earthy truffle.

For the main event, we shared one of the fishes of the day – a glorious Dover sole (£70), expertly cooked and doused in herbed butter and shrimp. Other dishes on offer included the likes of hispi cabbage-wrapped cod fillet with pickled kohlrabi, seaweed powder, white bean cassoulet and dill oil, making it clear that this is a menu you could happily explore again and again.

Sides were a highlight in their own right. Slow-cooked butter-thyme potatoes with Parmesan were slabs of utterly moreish deliciousness – while mixed wild greens with house dressing were vibrant, fresh and perfectly cooked.

The wine list is refreshingly reasonable, starting at £39, but nudging into the upper middle rewards you well. We followed a recommendation of Domaine Guerrin Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Les Crays, which paired beautifully with the buttery richness of the fish dish (though we would happily have welcomed a touch more sauce).

Dessert was non-negotiable. We chose Alex’s “Twix” – tonka bean shortbread layered with salted caramel, dark chocolate and served with crème fraîche ice cream – as well as the passion fruit parfait with dark chocolate mirror glaze. Similar in appearance, both finished with delicate gold leaf, yet worlds apart in flavour. Each was thoughtful, indulgent: the Twix a big hit with my sweet-toothed guest, while I liked the contrast of the passion fruit with the chocolate.

Service throughout was excellent: warm and polished, even with a full room and the pressure of two evening sittings. There was a slight overlap in the middle, with some guests waiting for tables, but the bar provides a comfortable spot to enjoy a drink and a snack while you wait.

Orion is a brilliant addition to the Wimbledon Village dining scene – a restaurant that feels both neighbourhood and special occasion. We left already planning our next meal.

Orion
75–77 Ridgway
Wimbledon