Review: Christmas Menu at Sam’s Riverside
Review: Christmas Menu at Sam’s Riverside
By Mike Reed
Visiting on a clear, crisp and beautifully bright afternoon, Sam’s Riverside sits in a picturesque position overlooking the Thames by Hammersmith Bridge. The warm, friendly welcome from Fanny Stocker – one half of the restaurant’s successful partnership (the other being Sam Harrison) – set the tone for an excellent, relaxed lunch. We were there to check out the ‘Ivy’ Christmas set menu created by head chef Karol Mielczarek, and discovered a thoughtfully composed journey of heart-warming heroes with delightful twists, very well executed.
The interiors are a lovely blend of elegant yet relaxed; you feel the pleasure of being in a really nice restaurant without leaning into pretensions. The restaurant was busy and vibrant on this Wednesday lunchtime, with the bright atmosphere, comfortable seating and delicious food clearly drawing customers in.
The amuse-bouche was a standout in its own right: a Mushroom Duxelles Tartlet with pastry that crumbled perfectly, encasing a creamy, well-seasoned filling that was subtle but confident. Alongside it a Smoked Salmon Blini, delicate, pretty, and according to my companion (a self-proclaimed salmon blini expert), top notch.
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For starters we chose Truffled Beef Tartare, Pickled Shiitake, Crostini and Yellowfin Tuna Crudo, Bergamot Dressing, Blood Orange, Fennel. The tuna was as beautiful in looks as it tasted, with the freshest slice of tuna lifted by the bright bergamot dressing and the gentle sweetness of the blood orange. For me the fennel could have been bolder in flavour perhaps but that’s being picky. The tartare was generous in portion, uncomplicated and well-balanced with extra tabasco on the side to season accordingly to taste.
For the mains, my partner chose the Bronze Turkey Roulade, Roast Potatoes, Brussels Sprouts, Carrots, Pigs In Blankets, Chestnut Stuffing, and spoke of the perfect execution on each and every element. My Roast Halibut, Spinach, Crushed Potatoes, and Choron Sauce was equally well executed, the halibut cooked with precision and the sauce (essentially a tomato-accented béarnaise) a pleasing match.
Dessert sparked the biggest debate: who would claim the Christmas Pudding Soufflé and Brandy Ice Cream. If you are yet to feel Christmassy, this is the dish to ignite that magic. The reward, a soufflé releasing the nostalgic aroma and comforting warmth of a mince pie as the spoon sank in. My Dark Chocolate & Raspberry Bûche, Praline Crunch was heavenly: rich, smooth, and lifted by the sharpness of raspberry. A Bailey’s Macaron rounded the menu off nicely.
At £70pp plus drinks, this Christmas set menu offers great value, and the riverside setting adds a quiet sense of occasion. A special mention must also go to the service: despite a busy midweek lunch, everything ran seamlessly. Attentive, confident, discreet, and always smiling, exactly what you hope for, and too rarely received in this combination.
- Christmas at Sam’s Riverside, Hammersmith. Set menus – The Holly (£55pp) and The Ivy (£70pp). Available from 24 November to 24 December.
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