Review: Alba, Knightsbridge
Review: Alba, Knightsbridge
Since opening last year, Alba has established itself as a glamorous Knightsbridge hotspot offering polished Italian cuisine for a well-heeled crowd. Now, a Japanese menu and omakase experience has just landed, planting a 10-seat counter along one side of the restaurant.
It sounds like a mash-up too far. But there is some rationale behind it – Italy has crudo, Japan has sashimi. Italy’s fishermen appreciate the freshness of their just-caught bounty from the sea with nothing more than a squeeze of lemon, while Japan’s sushi-masters are all about revering the freshness of the fish.
Guests for the omakase menu (meaning you leave it up to the chef to decide) sit along the counter, while the rest of the guests are seated at tables dipping into the Italian menu or Japanese a la carte. Wherever you sit, you treated to a glamorous looking space – floor-to-ceiling windows overlook Harrods while an open kitchen and display of the day’s catch line the other side of the room. There’s dark woods, terrazzo floors and pops of yellow to reflect sunny Italy.
First, you have to find the restaurant – it’s location is not obvious as you need to go through the lobby of a very posh furniture shop. Then up the wide marble staircase. On our visit on a Friday night, we could hear the buzz before we even reached the doors.
We perched ourselves at the counter and settled in with an excellent cocktail while looking out over the glitzy exterior of Harrods, all lit up like a Christmas tree. It makes an excellent backdrop.
There is a nine course or 12 course menu available, with a single seating each night at 7.30pm. Two chefs work together to produce the evening’s sushi. Takuya Kaneko, who brings 20 years of experience, including eight years at Zuma, is at the helm.
It was fascinating to see them in action – the chefs came across as highly professional and masters of their craft as well as relaxed and friendly – the whole thing felt convivial rather than watching some choreographed spectacle.
And the food – I’ve had some incredible sushi in London and this is in my top three (don’t make me choose!) For each course, you get a single piece of sushi. Among the highlights – scallop with bottarga; Italian red prawn with Japanese mayo, and fatty tuna with sea urchin roe and caviar. A prawn miso soup came in the middle – a tasty twist on the classic broth. The ‘dessert’ could have been designed for me – I don’t have a sweet tooth – a savoury crème brulee with brioche, caviar and foie gras.
I found the menu to be filling, my plus one could have eaten more. He wondered if it would be greedy to pitch up at a table for some pasta – it was tempting as the dishes coming out of the kitchen looked fabulous.
Pricing reflects the Knightsbridge locale. But it’s a great spot for a celebratory dinner, whether you go for Italian or Japanese.
Omakase menu:
£95 for 9 courses / £150 for 12. Guests at the counter needs to be over 14 and under 18 must be accompanied. Omakase is available by reservation only.
Japanese à la carte menu is available Tuesday-Saturday
Alba, 70 Brompton Rd, London SW3 1ER
