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Spiced is the new encyclopaedic cookbook from Copenhagen based food historian, designer and writer, Priya Mani.  It’s a 500 page tome with all you’ve ever wanted to know about the history of spices (Priya has selected 50 key ones that appear most often in global cuisines and allocated each a dedicated chapter).  It’s replete with food stories gathered from renowned international chefs and food writers and over 300 recipes from 100 countries. This is an ideal book for vicarious travelling for the culinary minded, it will take you across the globe and give you insights into a variety of cultures without having to move from your armchair.

I chose this recipe from the mastic chapter as this is one of my favourite spices to use in baking (for more mastic recipes, see lemon cookies, date and sesame cookies, holy bread).  In fact, when I was in Cyprus in May, I bought some face creams with mastic oil in them- shame I couldn’t find a bath oil.  This is however my first recipe here to feature filo, a great pastry to create with especially at this time of year when you might be wanting festive ideas for canapés. It works just as well with savoury and sweet fillings and can make something pretty simple look flamboyant (thinking of Georgina Hayden’s baklava cheesecake). My one big filo hack is I don’t use butter to brush it but olive oil.  Olive oil is more sustainable, straightforward and less messy.

This recipe is more involved than my usual picks so I’d like to offer some suggestions:

1. For the filling, you can use shop bought marzipan, moulded into a cigar shape to fit into the filo sheets.
2. If you are making the filling in the recipe then I suggest you at least double the quantities.  For me, I could only fill about 3 sheets so the rest went into the freezer.
3. I made the filling using honey instead of ypovrichio– if you’re using honey too don’t forget to add mastic to it.
4. Instead of powdered sugar on top, I used powdered pistachio as I like the vibrant colour and density of flavour it brings.  I felt the rolls were sweet enough already. Any chopped nuts would also do nicely for texture and taste.

Sweet Phyllo Cigars with Mastic
(Masourakia)

These almond-stuffed phyllo (filo) pastries, also called mastihakia, scented with mastic and mandarins, are a specialty of the Greek island of Chios. The combination of mastic and almonds boosts their sweet, marzipan-like aroma.

Ypovrichio , flavoured with mastic, is mixed with almonds to make the filling. It is sold in many flavours in Greek delis; choose the mastic variety for this recipe. You can also substitute the ypovrichio with honey instead.

Makes: 14 pieces Preparation time: 45 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes

For the masourakia syrup

• 2/3 cup (5 oz / 150 g) granulated sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon ground mastic
• 1 whole clove
• 2 strips mandarin zest
• juice of 1/4 lemon

For the phyllo cigars

• 3 oz / 80 g Ypovrichio (page 107) or honey
• 1 cup (3 1/2 oz / 100 g) ground almonds
• grated zest of 1 mandarin
• pinch of salt
• 1 egg white
• 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
• 7 sheets (about 11 oz / 300 g total) phyllo (filo) pastry
• 7 oz / 200 g (1 3/4 sticks) butter, melted
• 2 tablespoons powdered (icing) sugar, to finish

To make the masourakia syrup, bring the granulated sugar, 2/3 cup (5 fl oz / 150 ml) water, mastic sugar, clove, and mandarin zest to a gentle boil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir well to dis- solve the sugar and simmer for 5–7 minutes, until it looks clear and glossy. Stir in the lemon juice, remove from the heat, and set aside.

To make the phyllo (filo) cigars, place the ypovrichio in a heatproof bowl over a pan of gently simmering water, making sure the bowl doesn’t touch the water, and warm it until it softens. Add a splash of water if needed, until the mixture becomes spreadable, which should take only a few minutes.

Combine the ground almonds, mandarin zest, and salt in a large bowl. Pour over the melted ypovrichio and mix it in well. The mixture will be sticky.

In a separate bowl, and using a hand mixer, whisk the egg white with the cream of tartar to soft peaks. Very carefully, fold this into the almond mixture using a spatula until fully incorporated. Divide the almond-mastic dough into 14 portions, about 1/2 oz/12 g each. Shape each into a log, about 3 1/2 inches (9 cm) long and 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick (you can oil your palms so they stick less) and set aside.

Preheat the oven 350°F / 180°C / Gas Mark 4.

Stack the phyllo sheets and cut them across the width to make two equal halves, about 8 inches (20 cm) wide. Keep the phyllo stack covered with a damp towel to prevent drying. Lay one strip of phyllo on your work counter and brush it generously with melted butter. Place the almond-mastic log horizontally about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the edge closest to you, leaving space at both ends. Fold the two short sides inward over the filling to close the ends. Then, starting from the edge nearest to you, roll the phyllo up, brushing with more butter as you go. Finally, apply a thin line of water to seal the log. Arrange them seam-side down on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining phyllo, butter, and filling and brush the tops of the rolls generously with melted butter. Bake for 30–35 minutes, until golden and crisp.

Remove the rolls from the oven and, while they are still hot, brush with the syrup so they soak it up at once. Let the masourakia cool to room temperature. Shake the powdered (icing) sugar over the top through a fine sieve. Serve with a cup of coffee on the side, if you like.

Angela Zaher is a freelance food writer based in London.  Her articles and recipes have been published in Olive, The Guardian Feast App, The Metro, The Evening Standard, Delicious, Platinum, Good Housekeeping and Business Insider. She is the Vice Chair of the Guild of Food Writers. Find her on instagram @angela_zaher

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