Review: Engel Bar
Review: Engel Bar
By Helen Down
At weekends, London’s Square Mile can feel like a ghost town with nothing to offer but a Pret a Manger tuna baguette. And yet, hidden away in the Royal Exchange (a luxury shopping destination originally founded in 1571 as the city’s first purpose-built trading and financial centre) is the Engel Bar serving up helpings of Art Deco glam alongside cocktails and bites.
The building’s history and legacy are visceral. In keeping with this vibe, Engel feels like a 1920s flapper bar: servers in pearly white playsuits, live jazz music and gold-trimmed red velvet seating in a terrace that overlooks an opulent Fortnum & Mason bar.
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We sampled Engel’s brand new summer brunch menu that’s served on Saturdays between 12:30pm and 4:30pm. A choice of two courses for £32 or three for £35, there’s also the option of paying an extra £30 for unlimited drinks across 90-minutes. You can choose between aperol and birdie (birdie kümmel, prosecco and grapefruit soda) spritzes, or Bella Modella prosecco served in vintage-style coupes. With the bar uncrowded, we were spoiled with attentive service and endless top-ups.
Engel’s most popular dish on its American diner-style menu is the chicken waffle – tender schnitzel in buttermilk batter, served with a waffle, crispy bacon, maple syrup and sriracha mayo. It was a little sweet for my liking but very indulgent nonetheless. My lobster roll was like a pimped-up M&S prawn sarnie but with lashings of plump seafood and lux touches like avo mousse, finger lime and brioche. For me, though, the standout dish was the burrata starter, which arrived on a fat slice of fried garlic sourdough and was served with super fresh tomatoes. For those with room left for pudding, you can choose between Black Forest pancakes, brioche French toast, apfelstrudel or Cake of the Day – a little heavy, perhaps, but a damned good excuse to stay on and soak up the decadent atmosphere.
Engel Bar: www.engelbar.co.uk
The Mezzanine, First Floor, Royal Exchange, London EC3V 3LQ
https://www.instagram.com/engel.london
Brunch starts at £32
