Chicama review
Chicama review
Incredible fish and a fun atmosphere at this popular Chelsea spot
The Peruvian town of Chicama is home to the longest surfing wave in the world. It also happens to be the name of the sister restaurant to Marylebone’s much-lauded Pachamama.
This first fact was courtesy of my dinner guest who is going there on her travels this summer. She’s a surfer, lover of travel, and a foodie.
The restaurant is tucked away off what used to be the bohemian end of King’s Road where Vivienne Westwood and punk collided in Worlds End. Today, it’s all rather chichi. Chicama manages to be both bohemian yet high-end, and has been a SW10 hotspot since it opened back in 2016.
There’s a small patio out front with weathered iron chairs and tables, indoors is an intimate space with tiled floors, candles and a long open kitchen from where you can watch the catch of the day being flecked with spices and grilled.
We started, as we felt we ought, with Pisco Sours, the egg-white based Peruvian cocktail was executed beautifully here. Sweet, zingy, cloud-like. We guzzled it like naughty kids with their faces in the meringue mix. I would have happily taken a spoon for the last remnants in the glass.
The menu is all about the seafood, from ceviche and snow crab through to sole and sea bass. It all sounded delicious. And I wanted it all. There’s a set menu that means you can pretty much get a good taster of everything – and it is reasonably priced, too, at £65 per head.
We started with some perky Padron peppers, then some amazing prawn toast – quite unlike any prawn toast I’ve ever had, this is a big slab, almost like a slice of loaf cake, topped with Bonito flakes. Next an anchovy ‘Cezar’, which was inspired, coming as a wedge of red chicory with a plump salted anchovy on top and scattered with Zamorano cheese. It looked too rich, but it was surprisingly light.
Bluefin tuna crudo came with avocado and jalapeno – a winning combination. A seabass ceviche arrived speckled with sesame seeds and seaweed and perched in its tangy lip-smacking marinade. Delicious. Then, oh my god, the aubergine – crispy, delightful, on a bed of sour cream and pecans. My only niggle was that it would have been good to have more of a pause in between the dishes.
The main was catch of the day: a seabass for two – cut down its middle, spiced, and splayed for the bbq. It was served with black rice cooked in a deep squid ink, and had a real depth of flavour. For dessert, burnt cheesecake. Deliberately so, I hasten to add.
The tasting menu is all served sharing style, including the one giant hunk of cheesecake, and it fits in perfectly with the joy of this convivial place. We loved it. My guest’s interest in the foods of Peru were further piqued. While I wasn’t invited on her epic trip, I can go back to Chicama. Chelsea may not have the surf breaks but it does have one of my top London restaurants.
Chicama, 383 King’s Road, Chelsea
